From Dystini

Tip: "I figured out a new faux opal technique. I kinda mixed a few ideas from Glassattic - Translucent clay rolled out (I used 3 on my pasta machine). Brush Duo Blue Green Pearl Ex on it, not too thick, just cover it, don't go to the edges and it's best if it's not even. Fold it up and run it thru the pasta machine a few times to mix. You want it streaky. Roll flat again and add a bit more Blue Green in streaks. Dab on Flamingo Pink Pearl Ex randomly and not thick. Randomly add bits of leaf, gold or colored. Roll thru pasta machine 2 or 3 times. The final should be spotty/streaked with pink and streaky with the blue green with bits of leaf all over. Roll to final thickness as usual or make into beads. For best results, sand with all grits, buff and finish with your prefered gloss finish. But if sanding/buffing isn't possible, a few coats of the finish works ok. It's better with the sanding and buffing. My Opal dragon (right - click for a larger view) looks pretty good and I wasn't able to sand it and could only lightly buff in places. I did beads that look incredible and I've only sanded and buffed them."

Tip: "This is the technique I use for wood: I create three separate rods, each based on a wood tone that sets the color range. Maple, for example, begins with a blend of 2 parts Raw Sienna, 1 part Yellow. To that I add a touch of Gold, or Copper for woods with a reddish hue. The metalics give the wood a sheen, replicating the refraction caused by light bouncing off vertical and horizontal cellular walls. After blending this rod, I use part of it to create the darker and lighter grains of the wood. To darken I add a touch of black, and to lighten I add more Yellow and Gold. Roll all three to rods, stack and twist. Cut, stack and twist repeatedly to get just short of the grain you desire. Flatten and run through the pasta machine with the stripes in the rod perpendicular to the rollers."