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How To Build An Octomaid 2

by Brigitta Ter Wiel in Dordecht, Holland
edited by Sunni Bergeron

Page 1: Supply List, Part 1. The Frame, Part 2. The Head
Page 2: Part 3. The Upper Body, Part 4. The Arms
Page 3: Part 5. The Tentacles, Part 6: Make-up, Hair and Finishing Touches


Take half of the remaining skintone clay and roll out a sheet approximately 3-4mm (approx 1/8in) thick. Press this onto the basic foil/papertape body. Try not to pull or stretch the clay in the process. Use firm pressure to smooth and blend the clay. Do not cover the hips yet.

Put the leftover clay back into the pile.

Make a ball of clay about 4cm (1 1/2in) and cut this in two pieces. This will be the hips and posterior.

Apply the ball to the sides and back of the top half of the flared section of the foil/papertape armature. If the cheeks are too small, then make another ball approximately 3cm (1in) and cut it in two pieces. Apply to the cheeks and blend in the clay. Using a sculpting tool, accent the lines between the cheeks.

Make another ball approximately 2cm (1/4in) and then flatten it somewhat. This will be the belly.

Click on the picture for a closer look.

Apply this to the front of the top half of the flared section of the foil/papertape armature. Add or remove clay to suit your taste for a fuller or flatter belly. Blend in the clay.


Click on the picture for a closer look.

For the arms, roll out two snakes 1cm (1/3in) thick and 12cm (4 3/4in) long. Cut the two rolls in half, making one half just a little longer than the other. The upper will be the longer pieces. Roll the upper arms back and forth with your fingers moving from the ends to the middle to thicken them a little more and so they end up the same length as the lower arms. Set the upper arms aside.

Push one end of the lower arm a little flat (See A above). Then, looking at your own hand as a guide, make four cuts with the knife (See B above). Cut the tips of each finger so the length of each one resembles yours.

Pull the fingers gently apart. With two of your fingers, roll and stretch each finger carefully. (See A above). Again using your own hands as a guide, shape and line the hand to make it look like your own.

Click on the picture for a closer look.

Now turn the hands so the end above the wrists is facing you. Pierce a hole into the end so you can push the arms onto the armature without damaging your work. Set the lower arms aside.

Place the upper arms on your work surface and, with the knife, slice the logs open. Only go about half the depth of the log.

Place the upper arms on the wire armature and shape them. Blend the upper arm to the body clay.

For the breasts, make a ball approximately 3cm (1in) and cut this into two pieces. Roll each half into a slightly oblong ball and then give one end a slight push to give them shape.

Click on the picture for a closer look.

Place the breasts onto the body and blend the top into the body clay. Sculpt the aureoles from the breast or add a tiny ball of skintone clay that has been slightly darkened with black or brown and sculpt the aureole.

Then take a tiny pinch of skintone clay and make a very small, thin snake. Shape it into a donut and place it on the belly for the navel.

Pinch off a small ball of skintone clay from the pile and make a ball. Then roll it out slightly to make it a little tubular. Slide it down the body frame where the neck goes and blend it into the body.

Bend the neck wire so it will tilt the neck and head in the direction you want your doll to be.

Place the head on top of the neck and blend them together. Adjust the head and neck as needed.

At this point, stop a minute. You must now determine how you want the hands positioned before you add them. Bend the wire of the lower arms into the direction you want the hands to go. Then you push the lower arms onto the wire and blend the upper and lower arms together.

If you want that the hands resting on the tail or the octopus legs, than you must do the lower arms later after the first bake .

When you do the arms over the breasts than you must sculpt the breasts before you go farther with the lowerarms. If the arms are not covering the breasts, you can add the breasts at any time before the first bake.

Take a sculpting tool and, pressing it into the clay, draw the spine.
Now you bake the doll for the first time.

If you have acrylic doll eyes in the doll, you must bake at 110 degrees Celsius (230 degrees Fahrenheit) for 35 minutes to avoid melting them. If you do not have acrylic eyes in the doll (the eyes are closed or made of glass or polymer clay), bake at 130 degrees Celsius (265 degrees Fahrenheit) for 35 minutes.

When the baking time is done, just turn the oven off and let the doll cool inside the oven with the door closed. This is to prevent cracking (hopefully) should the clay cool too quickly or unevenly.

The first bake is to ensure all your hard work isn't marred when you go to the next phase in building your doll.

© September 2000

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