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How To Build An Octomaid 3

by Brigitta Ter Wiel in Dordecht, Holland
edited by Sunni Bergeron

Page 1: Supply List, Part 1. The Frame, Part 2. The Head
Page 2: Part 3. The Upper Body, Part 4. The Arms
Page 3: Part 5. The Tentacles, Part 6: Make-up, Hair and Finishing Touches


cover the octopus legs with foil making them a little thicker toward the body and narrower at the tips. Make sure the foil is packed as hard as you can get it.

Click on the picture for a closer look.

cover the legs with papertape. This gives them more strength and helps the clay stick better.

With an eye on the size of your oven, position the legs the way you want them.

Click on the picture for a closer look.

Now you condition the clay(s) you have chosen for the tentacles.

Apply the color for the underside of the tentacles first (I used gray). Then apply the other color to the top of the tentacles (I used sea green). Again, push firmly and roll your fingers back and forth to stretch and shape the clay. Don't pull it. Blend the two clays or not, your choice.

Make different size balls of clay from the same color as the lower part of the tentacle and push them onto the under side of the leg so they are a little flat. Pierce a hole in the ball and make a little star pattern so they resemble suckers.

You can cover the top of the legs with a "cane" to make them resemble fish scales or use a mokume gane technique for making the top covering of clay. Your imagination is your only limitation. Then you can accent the top of the octopus legs and the body with a narrower application of contrasting canes or golden metal foil or mica flakes, pearlex powders, texture them, add glitter. Play with it!

Now you can put some jewelry on the doll. It can be the same color as the top of the octopus legs or whatever catches your fancy. You can make a headpiece, some bracelets and a necklace on the doll; whatever you like .

You are now finished with sculpting the doll. Bake her again at the same temperature as before for the same length of time. Again let her cool inside the oven.


The Makeup: Most of the time I use normal eyeshadow and rouge for the doll's makeup. You simply pick colors that match or compliment the legs or tail. I used acrylic paint to color the lips dark red on this doll.

When you are finished with her face, apply a single coat of varnish or acrylic floor wax. (In the United States, Future is the most popular.) You can put glitter or a metallic or pearlex powder in the varnish to give the doll's face a little sparkle. Follow the package instructions for the varnish or floorwax to determine curing time.
Finally, using jewelry glue, place the eyelashes into the little troughs at the bottoms of the eyelids. Use jewelry glue.
Click on the picture for a closer look.

The Hair: You can make the wig from wool or mohair , I have used red mohair this time.
Note from Sunni: You can also extrude strands of clay from a garlic press or clay gun to use as hair.]

When you have organized your hair, you glue it on the dollhead with a hotglue gun. If you are using clay, you apply it one strand at a time. [Note from Sunni: begin attaching the hair in lines starting from the base of the neck and working up over the top of the scull to the tiara.]

The Nails: I give the doll nails with a sort of 3D acrylic paint called Scribbles. You can also paint them on with acrylic paint or fingernail polish.

Finishing Touch: You can put some glitter or pearlex powders or metallic powders randomly around on the doll to get the glamour look or sea creature effect. If you do, be sure to apply a coat of varnish to the rest of the doll to seal the powders to the surface.

You are done. Enjoy your creation.

© September 2000

We'd like to thank Brigitta and Sunni for all the work they did bringing this excellent tutorial to Polymer Clay Central. If you have a lesson or tutorial that you would like to share with the members of PCC, just email or and they will assist you in preparing your work for the Website.

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